Excessive noise can be detrimental to many living and working areas. I am well studied in sound control techniques in wood framed walls and am able make modifications to walls, doors, floors and ceilings in a specific manner to significantly reduce the amount of sound transferred through or around troublesome areas you may have.
Following is a sampling of things that can be done to control sound through and around wood framed walls, floors, and ceilings:
"Acoustic framing is the "best practice" for reducing unwanted noises from traveling through the walls, floors, and ceiling of a building, from both inside and out.
This type of framing usually consists of three parts: Traditional wood framing-2x4,2x6,2x8, etc..., a strip of metal called a "resilient member," and a special acoustical connector called a "resilient clip," which attaches the stud and the "resilient member."
Acoustic framing is very much like traditional framing, but there are some crucial rules to be aware of during installation:
The resilient strips and resilient clips are used to soak up sound and prevent sound from transmitting directly through the wood framing from one side of the wall to the other. Changes to it will ruin its sound-isolating/absorbing qualities.
Use acoustical caulk around the wall perimeter and outlet boxes. These areas are typically drafty, and sound travels easily through air. If you stop the air, you stop the sound flow through the air.
In typical framing, drywall is fastened directly to the top and bottom plates and directly to the framed studs/joists. Never do this with acoustic framing because this allows direct transmission of sound through the wood framing, (like the "tapping on the pipes" effect).
Breaking these rules creates an entirely new sound path, and cancels the noise-reduction qualities of the acoustic framing.
Combining this framing with acoustical batt insulation will maximize noise reduction in the wood framed walls, floors, or ceiling of a building."
This type of framing usually consists of three parts: Traditional wood framing-2x4,2x6,2x8, etc..., a strip of metal called a "resilient member," and a special acoustical connector called a "resilient clip," which attaches the stud and the "resilient member."
Acoustic framing is very much like traditional framing, but there are some crucial rules to be aware of during installation:
The resilient strips and resilient clips are used to soak up sound and prevent sound from transmitting directly through the wood framing from one side of the wall to the other. Changes to it will ruin its sound-isolating/absorbing qualities.
Use acoustical caulk around the wall perimeter and outlet boxes. These areas are typically drafty, and sound travels easily through air. If you stop the air, you stop the sound flow through the air.
In typical framing, drywall is fastened directly to the top and bottom plates and directly to the framed studs/joists. Never do this with acoustic framing because this allows direct transmission of sound through the wood framing, (like the "tapping on the pipes" effect).
Breaking these rules creates an entirely new sound path, and cancels the noise-reduction qualities of the acoustic framing.
Combining this framing with acoustical batt insulation will maximize noise reduction in the wood framed walls, floors, or ceiling of a building."
